Saturday, December 22, 2018

Hawaii, episode 15. In which aloha means goodbye.



Before exchanging a farewell aloha from our 50th state for a return howdy to our beloved Lone Star, I thought I would share with you a few final sites and experiences which were new to Mari and me during our recent Hawaii adventure.

That's us in front of Iolani Palace in downtown Honolulu, posing our usual "we own the place" pose. This wasn't the first time we thought about visiting the royal palace and it has been on our travel list every time, but we finally decided to commit and ink it onto our itinerary for our last full day.

Completed in 1882, the palace did not serve as royal residence for very long, unfortunately, with a government overthrow in 1893.

You will learn a lot from the knowledgeable tour guides who volunteer their time at the palace, maybe too much.

Despite being in beautiful natural surroundings with an imposing balance of opulent furnishings and amazing artwork, the historic details of the United States' abuse of power over the Hawaiian people gave me great pause because it certainly wasn't the first time (and won't be the last) the US government failed to provide justice for all.

Touring the Palace is a valuable learning experience for families visiting Hawaii and it is also the only opportunity to visit a royal residence in the United States.

Come along with us on our tour; Mari took some great photos while I was filming.

Your tour begins as you gather on the porch and are given booties to slip over your shoes.
When you first enter the palace, you are greeted by an amazing hand-carved koa wood staircase.
More koa and beautifully carved furnishings in the dining room.
The bedrooms open into a beautiful common room.
Kind of like the common rooms in the Hogwarts houses!
A bedroom fit for a queen.














Several royal gowns are on display in the throne room including a famous peacock gown
created for Queen Kapi'olani to wear at Queen Victoria's 50th Jubilee in London.




















Queen Kapi'olani and her successor and sister-in-law, Lili'uokalani, were strong and proud leaders and as independent as their historical circumstances allowed.

The photo of them together at left also reflects their respect and admiration for ceremony.

You will find their remarkable influence reflected throughout the royal residence, especially in the Quilt Room in which Lili'uokalani was imprisoned for eight months after she was forced to abdicate.

The quilt's beautiful handiwork (proudly on display) is a poignant symbol of sacrifice and inspiration. 

After our tour of the palace's private rooms upstairs, our group was allowed to wander (sans booties) several exhibit halls in the palace's lower level.

Of course, there was a royal gift shop (and another tea towel for my own royal collection).

Mari was especially excited to visit the display of royal jewelry, as you might imagine. Before entering the room, I was struck by a prophetic quote emblazoned on the wall at the entrance to the exhibit. The quote is presented in the original Hawaiian and then translated above a commanding photo of Queen Kapi'olani.

"The rays of the sun shall be your attire, Fashioned for you by the clouds of the heavens."

This beautiful expression of the power and beauty of nature moved me as I entered the vibrant and elegant display of "crown jewels" that had adorned Hawaiian royals through ceremony and celebration as well as during times of mourning and loss.

The good Catholic school boy (deep) inside me couldn't help but recall a similar reference. "And there appeared a great wonder in heaven, a woman clothed with the sun, and the moon under her feet, and upon her head a crown of twelve stars..." (Revelation 12:1).

Somehow, the imagery of being decorated with the sun's golden rays, brilliant white clouds, and bountiful blue skies seemed appropriate in our heavenly Hawaiian environs.

Leaving the palace, Mari and I headed across King Street to sight another local icon and tick another item off our travel list.

This statue commemorates King Kamehameha I who unified the Hawaiian islands more than two centuries ago.

Be sure to visit both websites for helpful visitor information along with some history.

Mari and I always get a little sad on our last day of traveling and, as I've posted previously, that's always a sign that we have enjoyed our stay.

Sometimes we are even blessed with the opportunity to revisit (and re-revisit) favorite locations and explore them anew.

While our visit to Iolani Palace was during the last full day of our trip, our adventures weren't quite over yet. You will find when you visit Hawaii that your last day involves more than a quick shower and a mad airport scramble, at least if you are heading back home to the mainland.

Hawaii's Pacific location and time zone allow for more leisurely departures, usually an afternoon or evening flight that will land you stateside early the next morning, like traveling to Europe from the US.

What to do with a half or three-quarters day in a tropical paradise? Staying at a resort will allow you an extra few hours at the beach after you have stored your luggage, some souvenir shopping, a deliciously satisfying stroll down to the Steak Shack... or even a catamaran sail along the shore.

That was the case with us. We had been eyeing the hotel's catamaran for over a week from our patio perch (zoomed in at right) and decided our last morning would be fully felicitous for a new sailing adventure.

Don't ever ask me my jib from my jab, and never call me Ishmael, I am not that kind of sailor.

These final offshore views (you're welcome for saving my favorite shirt for the final day, by the way) provided the perfect final memory.

I want to thank you, dear reader, for following our adventures from paradise.

I realize that currently it is cold and slushy and maybe a little miserable where some of you live, but please remember that is not always the case (and cold is not always miserable).

Postcard pictures are perfect for a reason, but life's adventures are often far from perfect. As a new year approaches, let us continue to do our best to perceive perfection even in the most unexpectedly imperfect places (and people).


I am excited to begin sharing with you our Maine adventures next time. There are many fabulously overflowing fleas, many (almost) postcard-perfect photos, many foodie favorites, and perhaps one too many lobster rolls.

Many thanks to my supportive and spirited fleamarketing copilot for always steering me in the right direction, even if we wind up taking a wrong turn. Aloha!

Sunday, December 9, 2018

Hawaii, episode 14. In which we are tour guided.

One of my most favorite days with Mari was our guided tour of southern Iceland during our Baltic/Nordic summer adventures in 2017.

We shared that day with an experienced guide who, while not a native Icelander, navigated us safely and expertly around the Land of Fire and Ice while sharing with us some of the island republic's history and fascinating folklore.

While we had enjoyed a day tour of Oahu during our first visit to Hawaii as well as various shore excursions during our second visit, Mari and I were hoping for a more personal experience third time round, something like our private Iceland tour with Sergei.

After doing some research on our tried-and-true trip planning site, TripAdvisor, Mari identified a tour called "Ancient Oahu Circle Island Tour" that truly fit the bill. Part of the tour's description promised we would "learn about Hawaiian history and culture while exploring ancient sites" and that sounded like an absolutely maika'i day. It was quickly into our very full (nearly 11-hour) day with our new friend Jason that we realized how perfect a day this would be.

That is Jason posing with me at the final stop on our spectacular tour, a tour that started with an early morning pick-up (7:30 AM is early when you are on island time) at our Hilton home-away-from-home. When Jason dropped us off just after 6:00 PM we couldn't help but give him a big hug and be a little sad that our day was over. We quickly felt at ease with our expert tour guide and as the day progressed, Jason learned enough about us and our travels to choose appropriately picture perfect stops (and snap practically perfect photos of us) throughout the day.

Our first stop was the beautiful overlook seen in these three photos above, with incredible views of Honolulu below. Mari and I decided to wear our gifted leis one final time, hoping to leave them as an offering at an appropriate site in honor of our anniversary observance.




The three photos above are at Mu-Ryang-Sa Buddhist Temple, the largest Korean temple outside of Korea (Korea is on a travel list, too, of course). Jason drove us up the steep Diamond Head hills to the upper Palolo Valley landmark where Mari and I roamed the well-tended gardens and explored the site's buildings and monuments. Unlike Byodo-In, Mu-Ryang-Sa is well-hidden by its surroundings, both natural and man-made, but once you step through the gate of the Four Heavenly Kings, a lush central courtyard warmly welcomes you. After doing our best to firmly embed this memory in our very full hearts, we placed our leis among the flourishing greenery and asked our guide to snap a photo.

I only recently discovered the incredibly informative temple site and highly recommend a visit before your own visit to the area. There is a wealth of information about the structures on the temple grounds appropriately layered with Buddhist wisdom. You will also find audio "Dharma Talks" about meditation as well as a link to a photo montage on YouTube.

Mari and I thoroughly enjoyed our postcard day as evidenced by these photos I would like to share with you, dear reader. Come along on our journey.











While we didn't do any fishing ourselves (fleamarketing antique Limoges fish plates is more my speed), we did enjoy an immensely flavorful local catch at a local "dive" featured on Guy Fieri's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. During our morning Oahu-trotting we had shared some of our travel history with our attentive tour guide, including favorite foodie haunts. Jason recognized immediately that we would enjoy the casual outdoor setting as well as the abundant local flavor at Fresh Catch.

Visit the site to learn more about Fresh Catch,
watch clips of Guy's visit,
and explore the bountiful menu.

Our final stop was at the location pictured below, Puʻu O Mahuka Heiau, an historic site that serves as a sober reminder of local history. The temple grounds functioned historically as a military outpost as well as the site of ritual human sacrifice in preparation for battle. Only the rock walls outlining the 17th century temple remain on the seemingly untamed site, the effect appropriately chilling and formidable.


Today, the national historic landmark offers expansive views of Waimea Bay below and of the Waimea Valley beyond. Mari and I noted how especially quiet it was up there. Not exactly a popular tourist trap, the heiau or temple site with its spectacular views did offer an appropriate location for reflection and to mark the end of our Ancient Oahu tour.

Visit the official site for plenty of visitor information and
to read up on an abundance of Hawaiian state parks.

Before I pack up my island souvenirs and migratory melancholia, I have one more palatial post to share. Aloha until next time.