London, episode 7. In which the book's the thing.

Time for a confession. No need to gird your loins because it's probably not much of a surprise, actually, but I am a film lover almost as much as a book lover. I have previously reminisced romanticized early childhood visits to the Warner Public Library as well as early adult forays into book collecting. Libraries and bookstores have always coursed through my veins, thump thump thumping lovingly through my heart and soul all these years since their earliest discovery. The world of film has left its indelible imprint on my life as well, leading not only to an MA in film studies over 20 years ago, but also to an enjoyable nearly-decade-long stint as a movie reviewer for our local newspaper. For most of our thirties, Mari and I enjoyed sparring in our weekly column, sharing sometimes dissenting opinions, but always enjoying our forced weekly viewings and the resulting (mostly) publishable dialogue.

There was a lot of popcorn and secretly-stashed snacks involved!

Sometimes the skies open wide and the worlds of books and film collide in pure poetic perfection and such is the case with one of my favorite films (which brings me back from reverie to this here London blog episode).

1987's 84 Charing Cross Road has it all for film lovers, book lovers, and lovers of England and beloved actors (Anne Bancroft, Anthony Hopkins, Judi Dench) alike. Visiting the site of the bookstore featured in the biographical film was high on my list when visiting London that first time. As easily accessible as a tube stop (or opening a beloved book), the site of number 84 may no longer be home to Marks & Co. from Helene Hanff's memoir, but nearby booksellers such as the one pictured above will more than satisfy the romantic cinematic cravings of literary travelers.


Since our first London visit, a signed copy of Hanff's book has made its well-traveled way into one of my most beloved collections.

Her inscription seemed destined to find its way into my most welcome and appreciative hands, "To an unknown booklover."

That's me!

If a visit to a proper bookstore is a must (and it should be), then you must visit Hatchards, London's oldest bookshop, celebrating 220 years this year. If you love books, you must go.

hatchards.co.uk

I was lucky enough to find signed copies of a new novel still available from a recent store visit by John le Carré. The selection of children's books was quite overwhelming, too, and I was able to find a beautifully illustrated Paddington for my youngest nephew.

We visited the new Hatchards location following another favorite and quite stereotypical London afternoon pastime. Tea. Tea for two and two for tea and all that, yes. Prior to our first London visit, Mari and I had previously enjoyed a special 10th anniversary "high tea" at the Grand Hotel on Michigan's Mackinac Island, filming location of my favorite sappily-romantic film, Somewhere in Time.

These photos are from a more recent visit to London's Fortnum & Mason, after the department store's tea room was redecorated and renamed in honor of the queen's diamond jubilee.

Accoutrement aplenty, high tea service while visiting London is an indulgent treat satisfyingly savored with sappily-romantic spouses. Somewhere among those toweringly tempting treats (don't forget the cheese plate!) there is some tea, I promise.

Although not driven by sappy romanticism (or my not-so-secret movie crush on Jane Seymour), tea at London's iconic Fortnum & Mason (right next door to the new Hatchards location) was recommended by my little Lonely Planet London guide, so off we went in search of the elusive perfect cuppa (and hunka).

Explore both sites before your visit, but be sure to ink an entire afternoon in your itinerary to fully appreciate both experiences. Fortnum's food hall is foodie paradise. Don't go hungry!

fortnumandmason.com

(Select the Restaurants tab, then The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon tab

to see photos, menus, and to make a reservation.)

I know, "Tea and books, Lou? You're in London, for crying out loud, and you're having tea and buying books?!" There were a few more items planned for that first visit to London, but so many more kept creeping onto my list that we knew we'd need a return trip (or two or three) before making any serious itinerary progress. Even fleamarketing took a back seat to typical tourist traps on that first visit, but they ain't tourist traps for nothin'.

We get the royal treatment, next time.

London, episode 6. In which I make not my thoughts a prison.

It really is a beautiful bridge, if that can actually be said about a bridge.  (I think it can.)

As you leave Borough Market, nourished and refreshed, and continue ambling along the Queen's Walk, you will find your sight-seeing sights locked onto the historic and magnificent icon of London's skyline you see here.

London's Tower Bridge is still almost a mile away, but as it comes closer and closer and grander and grander into view, that last half mile or so will melt madly away and soon you will be posing for photos like mad.  (Previously pictured was our own touristy photo, the result of a camera exchange with out-of-town Brits.)

Don't go too mad or you'll wind up locked up at the final stop on our (say it like you mean it) "three-hour" all-day walking-and-touring, photo-snapping, and brownie-snacking tour.  Once you cross Tower Bridge back to the North bank of the Thames, you will not be able to miss the magnificently medieval structure known as the Tower of London.

Originally constructed in the late 11th century, the Tower complex has served a variety of roles throughout British history, most notoriously as a prison. Unfortunately, our extensive meanderings and tourings (and snackings) deposited us at the Tower just after the final admission of 5:00 PM, but we did have time to watch the short film and wander around the exterior for a bit (and add a revisit to a future travel list).

An extended London layover in July of 2013 finally gave us the opportunity to revisit the Tower on a Saturday morning, which turned out to be a very popular family activity day, but which also provided ample time to explore the ancient complex and to view some of the special exhibits.

Although my wife is a true history buff, I suspect that one of the main reasons for our visit was because the Tower castle is also home to the Crown Jewels of England and Mari, as you know (and I love), has a particular penchant for the precious (and semi-precious).  She is not alone, as you can see in the photo to the right.  The nearly hour-long queue to enter the exhibit was well worth the wait.

When you visit the site you will find a wealth of information including a calendar of events and loads of historical anecdotes which will make you assuredly add a visit to the Tower of London to your own best-laid travel plans.

hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london

Our day's walk concluded, I had finally been able to cross a great many iconic London locations off my ever-expanding travel list, but the more I crossed off, the more I continued to add as this wondrous city continued to open its welcoming arms to us.

More familiar favorites and a few touristy must-sees next time.

London, episode 5. In which fowl is lunch fare.

Sometimes Mari goes a little camera crazy when we travel, but I am always grateful to have hundreds of digital photos (and memories) to sift through and edit when we return home.  We are back from our most recent adventure, which concluded with a five-day layover in one of my favorite cities.  Never ask me to choose between New York and London, please.  Either way, my New York or British accent lives with me about a week after returning home.

New York attitude never fades.

Here we are enjoying a final
escalator trip down into a London tube station last week.  This was our 4th visit to London and I can't help wanting to plan another revisit already.  So much still to see!

In the meantime, I'm excited to continue that first stroll along the Thames I began sharing with you before Father's Day.

During that first stroll ten years ago, the Millennium Bridge may have been closed for repair, but Mari and I finally had our moment crossing the bridge last week.  We had just left St. Paul's Cathedral (another first for us) and at left Mari caught me spreading my wings while finally crossing the bridge towards the Tate Modern.

Below is the view looking back towards St. Paul's.  Mari and I really enjoyed our recent visit to the historic cathedral.  It always amazes me to visit sites that old (late 17th century) and historically significant.  Stepping where so many others have stepped, so many great historical figures:  Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. visited in 1964, funeral services were held for Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher, Queen Elizabeth II celebrated her golden jubilee in 2002, and, of course, that first royal wedding that forever wed me with my love for all things British, Charles and Diana's 1981 nuptials.

It's not just the celebrated and historically significant figures that make St. Paul's great, but it is also a site where the not-so-famous are honored and remembered.

All along the time-worn floors of St. Paul's, English citizens are memorialized.  So many names and dates
I remember seeing etched on the stone floors, some with simple epitaphs commemorating short but thoughtfully-lived lives and family members left behind, others with descriptions long and poetic, challenging future generations to keep memories alive.  At first it feels funny walking along ancient stone floors that mark the graves of loved ones from long ago, but while ambling along and reading those names and dates I found myself immersed in a bit of very personal history, even if only for a moment, often the history of a local citizen whose charitable works were poetically eulogized in ancient scripts to be trod by future generations, perhaps even weary travelers from abroad.

Visit the thoroughly helpful site
to plan your visit.

stpauls.co.uk

Leaving St. Paul's and its history behind, we walked towards our first walk across Millennium Bridge, feeling satisfied and even energized.  After crossing the very modern bridge and then retracing our past steps as we passed the Tate and the Globe, Mari and I came to rest for a while at a future foodie favorite first discovered on that original 40th birthday Spring Break trip to London.

Within the many outside stalls of Borough market, weary travelers and famished Londoners alike
will find a bustling group of talented artisans and local producers anxious to serve up their bountiful harvest of fresh food as rustically simple or fancifully gourmet as you please.  On that first visit, my lean and hungry look was more than tamed with a hot grilled chicken sandwich piled high with tender greens and fresh ripe tomato on heartily yeasty bread, memorably satisfying organic nourishment after our meanderingly long day that was still not quite over.

Also memorable was the best brownie ever.

Not quite sure if it was my romantically distorted memory of being in London, Mari and I have returned to Borough Market for brownies twice more just to be sure, most recently as last week from the stall pictured above manned by a very friendly Frenchman.  The decadently fudgy brownie may be moderately romanticized, but it was still damn good.

Visit the colorfully helpful site before visiting the market.  It is loaded with useful information about products and vendors as well as articles, recipes, and an events calendar.  Be sure to sign up for the newsletter, too.

boroughmarket.org.uk

I am forever grateful to the independent spirit of the vendors at Borough Market and the varied carols I hear upon each visit.  I don't think Whitman would mind my extending his imaginatively inclusive metaphor to include our talented friends across the pond.

We conclude our day-long three-hour walking tour next time by crossing one final bridge... and it's a beauty.